Jalea in St. Charles demonstrates chef-owner Andrew Cisneros' talent

Sauce 75: the essential St. Louis restaurants right now

St. Charles’ historic Main Street may be an unlikely setting for a Peruvian bistro, but Jalea is a restaurant worth crossing the Missouri River for. Chef-owner Andrew Cisneros has worked under some of St. Louis’ most respected chefs, and at Jalea, a Sauce Best New Restaurant honoree in 2022, he’s now demonstrating the scale of his own talent.

The seafood here is perfectly fresh: the eponymous jalea with crisp, breaded seafood that could range from cod to Florida snapper, depending on the catch of the day; or citrus-enhanced chunks of ceviche in “tiger’s milk” marinade blending clam stock, lime, garlic, ginger, red onion and Peruvian peppers.Cisneros’ use of sauces is another area of consistent excellence. The pepper cheese huancaina with perfectly crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside yuca fries, the house tartar and aji-citrus mayo, the assortment of sauces served with the pollo a la brasa: each of these adds distinct color and diversity to an already rich experience. The cocktail selection is built significantly around Peruvian pisco – start with the wonderful pisco sour and go from there.

323 N. Main St., St. Charles, 314.303.0144, jaleaperuvianbistro.com

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The Sauce 75 is a photomosaic of the best in St. Louis dining in 2024. This list is a celebration of the diverse skills, techniques and culinary traditions that meet across our region. In sum, it tells a story about where St. Louis has been, where it is now and where it’s going next. Many great and good St. Louis restaurants have not made the cut. (Seventy-five is a lot fewer than you think!) Restaurants are constantly growing and evolving and go through ups and downs. Newly opened restaurants can take time to find their feet: There are a few exciting new places we’re cheering for, but which we feel haven’t yet fully hit their stride. Read the entire list here.