Rob Connoley, former chef-owner of Bulrush photo by Meera Nagarajan

Rob Connoley's 13 favorite St. Louis restaurants

The James Beard Award nominee closed Bulrush in June 2024 due to 'election-year hate politics'

Rob Connoley wasn’t always a chef. He has a doctorate in sports psychology, and spent some years working for nonprofits, which included three years at a meth treatment facility in New Mexico. However, over a five-year run as chef-owner at Bulrush, Connoley amply demonstrated his gifts in the kitchen, notching up successive James Beard Award semifinalist nominations in the Best Chef: Midwest category in 2022 and 2023. This year, he went a step further, receiving a finalist nomination in the same category. However, Connoley is now at a crossroads. In June, he announced his decision to close Bulrush, citing growing unease over what he described as “election-year hate politics” targeting LGBTQIA+ communities in Missouri. Connoley hasn’t announced what his next move will be – he said nonprofit work may be a part of his future – but the closure of one of St. Louis’ very best restaurants has sent shockwaves through the industry. Connoley is a champion of a broad range of cuisines, and we spoke to him recently about some of his own favorites. “I have developed my entire culinary career around the quote from Jiro Dreams of Sushi, where Jiro says, ‘To make great food you need to eat great food,’” Connoley said. These are the places he says feed him great food in St. Louis.

 

boiled fish with chinese green pepper at chilispot​ // photo by izaiah johnson

 

ChiliSpot
“There is no restaurant even close to ChiliSpot in my heart. I eat here at least once a week, and the staff knows better than to bring me a menu because I know it inside and out. My love affair is a result of my best friends introducing me to Sichuan hotpot a number of years ago. It’s the reason I’m learning Mandarin – to order my meals in Chinese.”
7930 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.925.8711, chilispotusa.com

Sueño Latino Restaurant
“This family-run Honduran spot is great for lunch or dinner, and I can eat their chuleta asada (grilled pork chop) over fried plantains any day of the week! I would put their empanadas against any in town.”
2818 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.899.0777, Instagram: @suenolatino.stl

The CurryClub
“I love unrestrained spice. Not spice for spice’s sake, but for the burn which helps flavors to linger and dance in your mouth. Curry Club does that for me with dishes you don’t find at the majority of Indian restaurants. But it’s their dosas that make me swoon, especially the fruit and nut dosa.”
1635 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.778.7778, stlcurryclub.com

Pizzeria da Gloria
“This Neapolitan-style pizza house on the Hill is always bustling, and the orange glow from the oven is a beacon. I am not discerning when it comes to pizza. Just give me yummy toppings, a sauce, and dough that has some chew.”
2024 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3734, pizzeriadagloria.com

 

margherita pizza at pizzeria da gloria // photo by izaiah johnson

 

The taco truck outside El Volcán Discoteque
“El Volcán is the Mexican discotheque at Interstate 44 and Kingshighway Boulevard. It features live music a couple of times each week. That’s when you’ll find an unmarked white truck sitting outside. This family business is putting out some of the best tacos in town. Typically, the choice is beef or pork – both are good – but for me the star of the show is the salsa they set out. It’s open very late for us restaurant workers.”
4920 Northrup Ave., St. Louis, 314.954.9876, Facebook: El Volcan Dicoteque 

EAAT
“EAAT (Easily An Awesome Time) is one of the most exciting pop-ups around right now. Chef Ben [Brennan] grills skewers and other Asian-inspired light dishes, perfect for hanging out with friends over a few cold ones. Big on flavor and technique without ego or high prices.”
Instagram: @eaatstl

Grand Pied
“I often nutritionally deplete myself through the long restaurant work hours, and when I get to the weekend it is time to refuel. Grand Pied is hearty, flavor-packed and soulful. Small neighborhood feels with strong New Orleans leanings. The slinger or burgers get the job done.”
3137 Morganford Road, St. Louis, 314.974.8113, grandpied.com

Black Salt
“Black Salt has slightly elevated takes on traditional Indian dishes. You can see the chef is very proud of his food and wants to engage the diner who is tired of the same old tikka and curry.”
1709 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.204.6441, blacksaltstl.com

 

black salt in chesterfield // photo by carmen troesser

 

Upper Crust Bread
“Jeffrey Moll is making some of the best bread in town. I’m the baker in the family, so I rarely buy breads and pastries, but Moll has so many options of flavors and flours. If you can’t decide, just order a bag of pretzels and the damn-good rye chocolate chunk cookies!”
Pre-order and pickup only, 636.575.3224, uppercruststl.com

Levels Nigerian Cuisine
“The quality of this Nigerian cooking is definitely next level. Enjoy a sweet cocktail and a big spicy plate of egusi soup. Or if you’re less adventurous, grab a hearty burger or traditional jollof.”
1405 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.571.9990, levelsstl.com

Kitchen 95
“The founding chef from the original Tai Ke split off when Tai Ke moved locations and transitioned to Tai Ke Shabu Shabu. Lovers of the original Tai Ke can find many of the classics like beef noodle soup, as well as new favorites to please the neighborhood.”
2336 Woodson Road, Overland, 314.801.8895, kitchen8895.com

Umami Seasons Hotpot
“Umami Seasons is the hotpot we’ve been waiting for. Umami has the best sauce bar in town, solid meat offerings, a tasty base stock and excellent service. Yes, I know your auntie’s is the best, but I’d rather go somewhere with a people-watching scene.”
6602 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.319.1146, Instagram: @umami_seasons

Sum Tea House
“I often grab a boba after a spicy meal at ChiliSpot. Sum Tea is less crowded than a nearby competitor, and they can talk me through choices in a way that is personal, fun and caring. You’re always with family when you come here.”
8501 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.222.1540, sumteahouse.com