Preparation

• Popcorn requires a lot of heat and a lot of oil. In a large pot (The one I use at the restaurant can pop an entire recipe of popcorn at a time.), heat a generous amount of vegetable or corn oil to smoking. Add a thin but solid layer of kernels, cover, and shake the pot a few times until you hear the corn starting to pop. Lower the heat to medium-high, shaking often so there are no hot spots, and listen – it’s the only way to know when to pull the popcorn. When the popping slows to a trickle, remove the pot from the heat and let it stand 1 minute. Uncover and pour the popcorn into a bowl, watching for any burnt pieces on the bottom, which should be discarded. If the corn tastes burnt, the grits will taste burnt.

• Bring the water, butter and some salt to a simmer. Throw in a big handful of popped kernels, simmer for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until the corn has softened, and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Transfer the liquid that strains through back to the pot, and bring to a simmer. Add more popcorn. Repeat until all the corn is gone. Add water as necessary, although you shouldn’t need to add too much.

• Press the softened kernels through a medium strainer basket, discarding the hulls and seeds that cannot be pushed through. Transfer the strained corn, which will look like stiff grits, into a pot. Add the reserved cooking liquid, which should be slightly thickened from the cornstarch, and should taste like popcorn (On its own, this makes a nice sauce for steamed fish.). Add butter and more water as necessary to make a grits-like texture – we find that slightly on the thicker side is better. It should taste like a cross between grits and a movie theater. Serve with a bowl of buttered popcorn on the side.