Recipe: Dale Talde's Pretzel Pork-and-Chive Dumplings

Dale Talde made his mark on the national stage on Top Chef and Top Chef: All Stars. His restaurant, Talde in Brooklyn, is Asian-American with influences as varied as his experience growing up the son of Filipino immigrant parents. His cookbook eloquently explains those influences in a lengthy but engaging (and at times irreverent) introduction. It’s not required reading to enjoy the recipes, but highly recommended.

The Pretzel Pork-and-Chive Dumplings are a staple on Talde’s menu and an ideal entry point to his brand of Asian-American. Though extensive, the recipe is simple to execute. Fatty ground pork is mixed with ginger, soy, sesame oil and a mountain of chives, then swaddled in wonton wrappers. Like pretzels, the dumplings are parboiled in a frothing alkaline bath of baking soda and water, then slathered in a coating of egg and butter. When fried, the dumplings turn as gloriously brown as a Gus’s soft pretzel.

And what’s a pretzel without mustard? Talde’s doctored Chinese mustard makes the perfect pungent accent to this salty, buttery treat. A note: This recipe makes about three dozen dumplings. Unless you’re cooking for a party, I recommend halving it. It’s not that you’ll make too many; rather, you run the risk of eating all 36 in one sitting.

Skill level: Medium. Most recipes require an extensive pantry of Asian ingredients and prep work, though Talde is totally fine with shortcuts.
This book is for: Fans of both authentic Asian cuisine and Americanized Chinese food
Other recipes to try: breakfast fried rice, buttered toast ramen
The verdict: Talde set the bar high. Bring it on, cookbooks.

Pretzel Pork-and-Chive Dumplings
Makes about 36

For the filling:
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
¾ cup thinly sliced chives, preferably Chinese chives (flat, like blades of grass)
1½ lbs. fresh pork belly, ground by your butcher, or other fatty ground pork, cold
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh ginger
1 Tbsp. reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 Tbsp. Asian sesame oil
1 tsp. potato starch or cornstarch
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. chicken bouillon
½ tsp. ground white pepper

For forming and par-cooking the dumplings:
36 wonton wrappers (round), preferably “Shanghai style”
4 quarts water
3 Tbsp. baking soda
3 egg yolks, beaten
1 stick (¼ lb.) unsalted butter, melted

For finishing the dumplings:
About 1 cup vegetable oil for shallow frying
¼ cup pretzel salt
1 cup Tahini Mustard Sauce

Make the filling
• Heat the oil in a medium pan over medium-high heat, add the chives, and cook, stirring, just until they’re wilted and very fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Let them cool slightly. Combine the pork in a mixing bowl with the chives and remaining filling ingredients. Mix gently but thoroughly with your hands until everything is well distributed. Don’t overmix or the filling will be too dense.

Form the dumplings
• Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Fill a small bowl with water. Form the dumpling one at a time, keeping the yet-to-be-used wonton wrappers under a damp towel.
• Put a dumpling on the work surface.
• Add a slightly mounded tablespoon of the pork mixture to the center.
• Dip your finger into the water and use it to moisten the edge of the wrapper, then pinch and slightly flatten the filling to form a log shape.
• Fold the wrapper to form a semi-circle
• Firmly press the two edges together, leaving both sides open.
• Holding the pinched edge with one hand, invert the dumpling.
• Use the other hand to push the rounded bottom of the open end so it meets the pinched edge and very firmly pinch those closed. Force out the air from the pocket you created, then do the same to close the other open end. Make sure all the edges are tightly sealed; if two edges won’t seal, try moistening the edges with a little more water.
• Transfer the dumpling to the prepared baking sheet and repeat the process with the remaining filling and wrappers.

Par-cook the dumplings
• This step gives the dumplings that pretzel-like chew and aroma. Combine the water and baking soda in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Line a large baking sheet or plate with parchment paper.
• Working in three batches, boil the dumplings until their filling springs back when you squeeze it, 4 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the dumplings to the prepared baking sheet as they’re done.
• Brush the dumplings all over with the egg yolk (or drizzle and rub with a spoon to coat), then do the same with the melted butter. Let the dumplings sit for at least 2 hours or in the fridge, uncovered, for a day or two. The longer the better.

Finish the dumplings
• Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Put a paper towel-lined baking sheet in there, so you have a place to keep finished dumplings warm while you make the rest.
• Cook the dumplings in several batches to avoid crowding the skillet: Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and add enough oil to reach a depth of about ¼ inch. As soon as the oil shimmers, arrange some of the dumplings in a single layer, leaving some breathing room between them. Cook, using tongs to turn them occasionally, until you see golden-brown blisters on all three sides, about 5 minutes total. Sprinkle on about 1 tablespoon of the pretzel salt, toss, and transfer the dumplings to the oven to keep them warm. Add enough oil to maintain a ¼-inch depth, let it shimmer, and repeat with the remaining dumplings and salt.
• Eat right away with a bowl of tahini mustard sauce.

Tahini Mustard Sauce
Makes about 1 cup

For the filling:
½ cup hot Chinese mustard (or Dijon, if you have to)
2 Tbsp. well-stirred tahini
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 Tbsp. Asian sesame oil
1 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt

• Combine the ingredients in a bowl and stir really well.

Reprinted with permission by Grand Central Life & Style