Review: Robust in Downtown St. Louis

Editor's note: The downtown location of Robust is now closed. The Webster Groves location remains open. 

The buzz in the air on a Friday night at Robust is enough to deter any thoughts of Washington Avenue losing its after-hours steam. Stationed on the corner of Seventh Street and Washington, Robust is a few blocks away from the neon madness and pub-club scene. Yet people are finding it.

By 9 p.m., there’s a standing line behind the neat row of bar stools filled with chatty, attractive patrons who bask under a shower of metal rods that feign an indoor storm – the centerpiece in what is an almost theatrically designed space. Wraparound windows provide an enjoyable ground-level view of this previously neglected block of Washington Avenue, which has recently seen the addition of a handful of other eateries – Pi, Snarf’s and Takaya – as well as MX Movies.

A Webster Groves Robust 2.0 this place is not. The owners swung for the fences with this space, which has infinitely more raw charm and late-night appeal than its county sibling. Conversation, rather than music, plays off the high ceilings at this chic, contemporary wine bar. If there is any music, it’s lost in a nice din. And though Robust is situated near the Edward Jones Dome as well as Busch Stadium, there’s not a guest in sight with a ball cap or jersey. Jeans, yes, but designer. Beer, yes, but craft. An older crowd (certainly more mature than a few blocks west), but lively nonetheless. A lot of date-night couples; a lot of drunken smiles; and pretty much everybody enjoying themselves.

One of the reasons is the room – a tall order in itself. The dramatic interior is draped with intricate woodworking touches, streamlined stone edges and crafty metal artwork. It’s the way an urban wine bar should look.

Still, the folks here are queuing up for more than the ambiance. At Robust, the wine is the thing. Around 42 options rotate on the by-the-glass menu, and the bottle selections number well over 100. Daunting options are made easier by the user-friendly “Robust Factor,” a number system ranking in ascension like so: Bubbles, Crisp, Mellow, Luscious, Soft-hearted, Generous and Robust (also Sweet and Stickies).

Pretty much an obligatory act for first-timers is an order from the “Wine Flights” menu – Robust’s three-glass tasting session − which runs from $12 to $26. Sure, it’s a tad gimmicky. The wine descriptions on the individual placemats are more than a little mawkish and over-the-top. (My syrah did not open into a palate of cracked peppercorn and leather as promised. I’m kind of glad it didn’t.) Regardless, the flights are a good time – especially if they kick you out of your comfort zone, if only for a few sips. I opted for the “Take Me to Bed Reds,” a trio of reds that included two well-put-together, easy-sipping European blends (one hailing from the Côtes du Rhone region and the other from Tuscany), plus a glass of nonsense syrah zinfandel from California. All were hailed by a waiter whose indiscriminate enthusiasm for, well, everything on the menu proved frustrating. My personal favorite was a beautifully tall, 6-ounce pour of full-bodied Chateau Saint Genes, a dark blend of merlot, cabernet and Malbec that’s well worth the $14-per-glass price tag. Unfortunately, it’s no longer on the menu.

It’s hardly punishable at this wine-centric joint to break ranks and order a cocktail. A standout on the innovative mixed drinks and “winetails” menu was a version of the classic Manhattan. Dubbed the “Perfect Manhattan,” it used Dolin Blanc and Amaro Nonino in addition to sweet vermouth and a dash of Angostura bitters. Expecting a SweeTart, I instead got a stiff and enjoyable concoction brimming with golden rye. Another unexpected treat was the beer menu, with more than 20 well-chosen foreign and domestic options. I was happy to see a Duvel golden as well as a Brazilian Xingu, a hearty black beer.

Wine, of course, is best enjoyed with small plates, of which Robust is in good supply. The evening menu provides date-night-friendly fare – a plethora of OK appetizers, a handful of substantial pseudo-upscale entrees and a few inventive desserts (like a flight of dark and raspberry chocolate truffles accompanied by a ruby port). Yet, cheese and meat plates are the way to go. Each selection proved worth the extra few minutes I’ll need on the Stairmaster to work off the calories. Any salt fiend in your group will enjoy the Genova Salami, a not-too-garlicky treat that was an awesome pair with the Chef’s 3 Cheese Sampler.

Still gritty under its nails, Robust’s downtown incarnation is a fine bar worth a return trip.

Robust
635 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.287.6300, robustwinebar.com