First Look: Soda Fountain Express at Westport Plaza in Maryland Heights

Westport Plaza is going through a growth spurt, with a raft of new residential and commercial development underway. The latest business to debut here is Soda Fountain Express, the sister restaurant of Soda Fountain at Union Station, which opened on Wednesday, Dec. 27, next to the venerable Westport resident the Trainwreck Saloon.

According to the restaurant’s general manager Mikayla Meyer, Soda Fountain Express shares basically the same menu as the original, but, as the name indicates, it’s built for speed. The restaurant offers counter service instead of table service and items are served on disposable paper ware, making the eatery a prime choice for a bite for office workers and shoppers in the area.

The Soda Fountain Express vibe is decidedly retro, but with a refreshing lack of kitsch and camp. There are ’50s hits playing on the sound system and some subtle pastel and neon touches decor-wise, but the overall feel of the place is airy and open, with lots of windows and a wide-open floor plan. The space, formerly a Panera Bread Co., boasts 78 seats inside and approximately 43 outside. 

The food menu is full of diner classics like cheeseburgers, hot dogs, chili and grilled cheese, along with sweets that include shakes, malts, sundaes and ice cream scoops. There’s also a selection of bulk and classic candy for sale. The stars of the show, though, are the Freak Shakes, over-the-top confections with extreme toppings, like the Cotton Candy, a Creamsicle shake garnished with cotton candy, a roll of SweeTarts, a Super Blow Pop, whipped cream and a cherry, and the Everything But…, a chocolate shake topped with chocolate-covered pretzel, potato chips, a chocolate-dipped pretzel rod, a Kitchen Sink brownie, caramel sauce, a peanut butter and whipped cream. In keeping with the Express concept, these versions are smaller than the originals and conveniently served in to-go cups.

Soda Fountain Express is open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sunday.