Review: Busch's Grove in Ladue

GUY'S PERSPECTIVE

As far as cotillions go, our Veiled Prophet Ball can take all comers. We know how to debut our young ladies to polite St. Louis society. Like all debutante balls, ours epitomizes a see-and-be-seen event. Now, tweak that annual one-night glitzy party into a high-end restaraunt and music lounge, and you’ll come damn close to Busch’s Grove, the Sauce readers’ choice for favorite place to see and be seen.

Like the Veiled Prophet Ball, Busch’s Grove is a spot geared toward The STL’s upper crust. Lester Miller invested $10 million into the space for a relaunch last November. (Busch’s Grove had been closed since 2003, after more than 100 years of being, according to its Web site lore, “the premier gathering place for generations of St. Louisans and their guests.” Since 1896, patrons have been “the leaders in business, government and the community, media and sports personalities, the local gentry and those who simply wanted to be a part of the Busch's Grove legacy.”) Blue blood or not, thank God he did. The space is stunning. The people striking. The drinks eye-catching. The entertainment spectacular. It’s a more-than-worthy category winner.

The sublime beauty of the space that contrasts wood and glass, dark and light is in the details – the entrance’s glass relief handles, sculpted with beautiful female forms; the thousands of tiny dark granite stones hanging from the ceiling of the main dining room; the countless birch branches that fill the seams between the rooms’ ceilings; the single long-stem rose at each table.

The charm of the people is in their look – women with new, almond-shaped eyes and fingers frozen from more than five carats; men wearing sports jackets because they feel they should, not because they go well with a graphic T-shirt; live Barbie dolls, five years removed from their own debutante ball, with blond hair and raccoon eyes; and a very grown-up regular so conspicuous in a white suit and black fedora, he’d attract attention at Outkast’s Player’s Ball.

The allure of the cocktails is in the bubbles – the expertly mixed martinis are chilled with a piece of dry ice. The martinis steam and bubble like Lily Munster’s cauldron.

And last, but in my eyes most important to the see-and-be-seen nature of Busch’s Grove, the entertainment – its electricity is in the tunes. In French cuffs, Windsor knots and sly grins, Jeremy Davenport and his bandsmen bring jazz talent of the highest caliber. Many of you know the story of the nationally renowned trumpeter and vocalist being driven from New Orleans, where jazz permeates the sticky air, by Hurricane Katrina. Seeing the opportunity, Miller brought Davenport and his band here.

Four nights a week, Davenport and his smooth baritone voice croon through Frank Sinatra, Louis Armstrong and George Gershwin numbers (and more), dropping brass trumpet blasts along the way. People eat it up, dancing in the aisles. Davenport isn’t long for St. Louis, so, please, catch him while you can. If you do, you’ll most definitely see and be seen.

The straight 411 …
For blue bloods mingling with New Orleans jazz, head to Busch's Grove.

GAL'S PERSPECTIVE

In order to be the place to “see and be seen” in St. Louis, a bar must embrace several qualities. It has to have style, upscale clientele, friendly staff and prime real estate for mingling. Busch’s Grove offers all of these qualities and more in a traditional environment mixed with modern flavor.

Well-dressed people of all ages sit at the bar or outlying tables nibbling on sushi and chatting. This isn’t just a place to grab a cocktail and appetizer before you go out. It is a destination. It is your chance to bask in the St. Louis spotlight. You can have a drink next to a Cardinal, then chat up a clergyman. But no matter whom you are out to mingle with, it is likely you will spot them, dressed in their Saturday best, seated somewhere inside Busch’s Grove.

The thing that stands out the most is the outstanding bar staff. Friendly and helpful employees are not only willing to serve you the swill of your choice, but also serve up a little gossip and entertaining conversation. Their charismatic personalities and quick wit keep you at the bar long after you would normally stay, just for the laughs. They provide a great atmosphere that keeps people coming back to be “seen” over and over again.

A large drink menu makes sure that no matter how you act or whom you talk to, you will have the right drink in your hand. Beer is cold and not too pricey, and you can order after-dinner drinks such as dessert wines by the glass ranging from a $7, or 10-year-old Niepoort Tawny, or a $92, six-year-old Château D’Yquem. Martinis are even served with a side of steam from the dry ice added to all martinis except those containing cream. Executive pours offer a full 4-ounce pour and attractive presentation so VIPs (or wannabes) can share a snifter, a smoke and society while being a little more sauced than the rest of the room.

Don’t be surprised if you see a local celebrity at Busch’s Grove. I was told that the hot spot draws a celeb clientele, but when I asked barkeep Ann Schultz if that’s true ? and who frequented the place ? she responded, “Yes, but if I told you who, I’d have to kill you.” With the high-society vibe of the room you always wonder, “Just who is this guy sitting next to me, and is he anyone important?” Rubbing elbows with the St. Louis elite definitely makes Busch's Grove a great place to be seen both socially and professionally. Making a high-profile business deal and a date for Saturday night all at the same time seems like a very likely possibility.

The main thing to keep in mind about the “see and be seen” atmosphere at Busch’s Grove is that you don’t already have to be someone important to be there. But you may become somebody just by being there. The joint is definitely home to the upper crust, but the friendly environment makes you feel at home no matter what part of the bread you came from.

The straight 411 …
Whether you have already arrived or are looking for directions, Busch’s Grove is your ticket to the St. Louis social scene.