3 Central American restaurants in St. Louis to try now

These spots serve the soul-satisfying flavors of Honduras and Nicaragua

For several years and many election cycles, we’ve heard Latino communities in the United States described as “a mosaic, not a monolith.” What better way to celebrate these rich cultures than through the regional cuisines that contribute to their diversity? The food of Central America, for example, has evolved over centuries into a unique blend of its Indigenous, African and Spanish roots. Central America’s simple and soulful meals, built on gentle flavors, offer a comforting contrast to the often fiery fare of its northern neighbor, Mexico. Here, we highlight three St. Louis restaurants that serve the soul-satisfying flavors of two Central American countries, Honduras and Nicaragua, and pick out a few dishes brimming with fresh ingredients and a home-cooked feel.

 

 

Pollo con tajadas & sopa de mariscos | Sabor K-Tracho
With its brightly colored mural across one wall, Spanish-language improv broadcast across three TV screens, and charming parakeet figurines suspended from the ceiling, it’s hard not to smile walking into Sabor K-Tracho (pronounced “Catracho,” an affectionate nickname for a Honduran person). In March 2023, the Nuñez family — made up of brothers Jolman, Edgardo and Ever Nuñez and two of their spouses, Kelin and Rachel — opened this Honduran restaurant in Maryland Heights. This is the family’s second restaurant, having had success at sister restaurant Sueño Latino on Cherokee Street.

One of their crown jewels is the pollo con tajadas (literally, “chicken with slices”), a staple Honduran dish beloved across the country. At K-Tracho, juicy fried chicken — your choice of leg or breast — takes center stage dressed in a tangy mayo-ketchup sauce and light tomato sauce. Nestled beneath lies a bed of tajadas, golden-fried slices of green bananas, which are tender and cushiony against the chicken’s crunchy exterior. A vibrant slaw of cabbage, pickled red onion, beets and chismol (a condiment similar to pico de gallo) adds a burst of much-needed freshness and ties the elements together.

Sabor K-Tracho doesn’t stop there. For seafood lovers, the restaurant’s Sunday special, the sopa de mariscos con coco, is worth the week-long wait. Be prepared for the enormous serving size — seriously, this thing is a giant. A treasure trove of nourishing ingredients awaits beneath the creamy coconut and seafood broth: crab, tilapia, mussels and perfectly tender shrimp, all swimming alongside starchy companions like yuca, plantain and corn. A squeeze of lime and a spoonful of rice soaked in the flavorful broth completes a food experience that will transport you straight to a Honduran beach. Leave yourself with leftovers to take home — you’ll definitely want them!

2286 McKelvey Road, Maryland Heights, 314.787.7440, saborktrachorestaurantmo.com

 

 

Canoa de maduro & churrasco Nica | Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine
This Nicaraguan restaurant in Fox Park has truly become a St. Louis institution. Owner Orlando Hidalgo opened Fritanga in 2007, and his deep passion for serving the dishes of his upbringing has helped him foster genuine connections with clientele along the way.

One such dish, the canoa de maduro (literally, “plantain canoe”), is a sweet, ripened plantain overflowing with your choice of beef, pork or chicken and topped with melted mozzarella cheese. It illustrates the pairing of ripe plantains with savory elements that is well-loved in Nicaragua and throughout the Caribbean. But those newer to this flavor combination needn’t be apprehensive; the harmonious blend of sweet, tart and savory is sure to win you over – especially when served with beef. Accompanied by sides of chileno (a smoky pickled onion and carrot salsa) and housemade garlicky chimichurri, this dish is comfort food at its finest.

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the churrasco Nica. Skirt steak is chargrilled and topped with the same vibrant chimichurri, having reached tender perfection thanks to its citrus marinade. It’s no wonder this dish has earned the top spot on the list of chef’s specials. Add a side of gallo pinto (red beans and rice) and yuca al mojo de ajo (boiled cassava root with garlic) and you’re well on your way to a traditional feast that tastes like it was prepared by a doting abuelita.

2208 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.7777, fritangastl.com

 

 

Baleadas & pupusas | Merendero Las Catrachitas
When we last featured Merendero Las Catrachitas, a Honduran restaurant in Princeton Heights, we focused on how its daily rotation of hearty soups can warm you on your coldest days. However, its menu features plenty of options that can be enjoyed year-round. In its simplest form, baleada sencilla, the iconic baleada consists of a large, fluffy housemade flour tortilla that envelops creamy refried beans, Honduran sour cream and crumbled white cheese. For added decadence, you may opt to include scrambled eggs and additional proteins like beef or chicken.

Merendero Las Catrachitas also serves pupusas, a griddled flatbread of corn masa stuffed with a variety of fillings, such as Oaxacan cheese, refried red beans, or loroco (a type of edible flower bud). They are most often recognized as a staple of El Salvador, with the nation declaring the pupusa its national dish and having a specific day to celebrate it. However, just as corn is revered across Central America, so too are versions of the pupusa, and Honduran chefs in St. Louis execute them phenomenally. The pupusa revuelta at Merendero Las Catrachitas is filled with cheese, beans and chicharrón (pork that is rendered, crisped, then ground) and grilled on a comal. One of our favorite parts of a pupusa is when the cheese has oozed onto the blistering comal and turned crisp. Be sure to wash down the salt and fattiness with horchata de morro, Central America’s more complex, nutty and chocolatey version of the refreshment.

5639 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.391.9192, Facebook: Merendero Las Catrachitas