Akar in Clayton is a love letter to chef-owner Bernie Lee’s past in Malaysia

Sauce 75: the essential St. Louis restaurants right now

This intimate space is a love letter to chef-owner Bernie Lee’s past. The name means “roots” in Malay, and the menu is inspired by Lee’s childhood, his travels and what he cooks at home. Try the insanely tender short ribs, which come topped with a rich and silky sambal-spiced demi-glace alongside mashed peas and burnt carrots, or the Rangoon stuffed with huge chunks of lobster meat and served with a spicy-sweet mango sauce. There’s also a handful of creative cocktails like the Serai, which includes lemongrass-infused tequila, cilantro liqueur and Thai chile simple syrup, as well as a well-curated wine selection.

Akar, 7641 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.553.9914, akarstl.com

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The Sauce 75 is a photomosaic of the best in St. Louis dining in 2024. This list is a celebration of the diverse skills, techniques and culinary traditions that meet across our region. In sum, it tells a story about where St. Louis has been, where it is now and where it’s going next. Many great and good St. Louis restaurants have not made the cut. (Seventy-five is a lot fewer than you think!) Restaurants are constantly growing and evolving and go through ups and downs. Newly opened restaurants can take time to find their feet: There are a few exciting new places we’re cheering for, but which we feel haven’t yet fully hit their stride. Read the entire list here.