Break up the drive to wine country at a laid-back cafe • by By Lisa Tebbe Photo by Josh Monken
Posted On: 09/01/2007 E-mail This To A Friend!

I fondly remember the days when a trip to our area's wineries included packing a picnic. These days, many wineries don't allow outside food, leaving patrons spending more cash just to have a little cheese and sausage. One way to curb hunger pangs is to stop for something to eat along the way. Wine Country Gardens in Defiance offers a picturesque spot to pop in and fill up (not to mention taste some wines) before hitting Augusta.

Also a full-scale nursery, Wine Country Gardens opened about three years ago and expanded recently to add indoor seating and a pavilion. At the inside wine bar and dining room, in addition to brick patios, a wide wrap-around veranda and the covered pavilion, almost every seat provides a panorama of the lush Missouri River Valley.

The cafe is open daily, and on Sundays a brunch buffet is served. Crackling sausage links and crispy bacon; a substantial breakfast casserole with potatoes, Cheddar cheese, ham and mushrooms; biscuits spotted with Cheddar cheese; sausage gravy (a bit bland) and large, fluffy pancakes round out the breakfast fare. Thick-sliced ham,green beans, roasted potatoes and smoked beef brisket (which made a tasty sandwich on the Cheddar biscuits) sate hearty appetites. There are fresh-baked cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing (just the right size to sample without filling up), a variety of scones and fresh fruit.

And to finish, try a few chocolate-covered strawberries with a sip of blackberry wine. While the menu sounds promising and there's plenty of food, the quality was disappointing. For the price, $16.99, I was surprised by the self-service informality. Order and pay at the counter, then have a seat. On our first visit, we were given virtually no direction.(Where's the coffee? By the front door. Can we sit anywhere we like? Apparently so.) However, on our second trip, the staff did a better job of welcoming and steering us in the right direction. The plastic plates and cups were offensive, not only because of the price but, more importantly, the sheer waste (and busing your own table further exacerbates the guilt of pitching plastic). Simple touches like setting tables with water, silverware, salt and pepper, and possibly a flower from the garden, would have been nice.

Disappointment aside, the experience is memorable. With a nice breeze, it didn't feel like 102 degrees on the shady veranda, surrounded by plants and flowers with birds warbling, bees bobbing, butterflies fluttering and a cat meowing. The view is simply breathtaking.

And, really, you don't need to spend a lot. Instead of the full brunch,you can go lighter (for $6.99) with fresh fruit, baked goods, granola and yogurt. A variety of cold sandwiches, cheese plates and salads are also available from the refrigerated case. The muffaletta was a variation of the classic New Orleans sandwich with salami, ham and turkey on chewy ciabatta with olive spread. A chilled glass of Chateau de Valmer Vouvray enhanced the saltiness of the tapenade and the creaminess of the cheese. The hot prime rib sandwich was delicious: tender, thinly sliced beef and a tangy roasted red pepper-Gorgonzola sauce, also served on ciabatta.

Salads are limited only by imagination. Grab a container of greens, choose your favorite dressing and up to five prepackaged toppings: nuts, cheeses, olives, artichokes, tomatoes, Craisins. Or buy a bag of the candied walnuts or spiced pecans to sprinkle on top (and snack on later).

You can also get a head start on your day of wine tasting by sampling any of the wines offered by the glass. Although I wasn't crazy about the small plastic cups, the variety is impressive -- from our own back yard to around the world. Since it was early, I sipped Apricot Supreme (just alcoholic juice, right?) from Oregon's Honeywood Winery while reading The New York Times at the wine bar. I usually don't go for super-sweet fruit wines, but this one was refreshingly more fruity than sweet.

Even with temps topping 100, visiting Wine County Gardens in August was pleasant. September and October should be spectacular.

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