Mysterious Leeks  by Sharon Arnot

Until just recently, my knowledge of leeks consisted of knowing that they were something similar to an onion, and that they always seemed to be in season because I always noticed them at the grocery store. Although they were readily available, I could never imagine what I would do with what I considered a very large onion. It was a mystery.

As it turns out, there are plenty of uses for leeks. Most notably, leeks are famous as an important ingredient for the cold potato soup called Vichyssoise. Surprisingly, Vichyssoise was created in America by French Chef Louis Diat, who was Chef at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in New York City. The inspiration for cold soup on a hot summer day came from childhood memories of putting cold milk in his hot soup to cool it enough to eat.

Leeks were thought to be part of the diet of the builders of the Egyptian Pyramids, and Hippocrates prescribed leeks as a cure for nosebleeds. Thought to be native to Europe and the Mediterranean, leeks have been cultivated for over 3,000 years. In 640 AD, the Welsh wore leeks in their hats to distinguish themselves from the enemy in the war of the Welsh and the Saxons. Not only did the Welsh victory make the leek the national flower of Wales, it is still worn on hats with pride on March 1st known as St. David’s Day, to commemorate the victory of the war.

There are six major varieties of leeks. They are Pinola, Titan, Arkansas, Derik, Palino and Unique. Leeks are grown in a sandy soil, which is constantly mounded up around the plant to allow a long white base to develop. The base should be at least one-half inch in diameter and slender. If the base begins to show a definite bulb shape, the leek is too mature. Leeks can also be too mature if a seed stalk can be felt in the center of the leek. If a hard stalk can be felt when the leek is gently squeezed, choose another. Those with a seed stalk will have a woody center. Leeks that are in any way limp should be passed up as well.

Because leeks have many layers and grow in large mounds of sandy soil, it is important that they are washed very thoroughly before use. The root end should be trimmed, as well as about 1/4 inch of the white base. Peel away any damaged or blemished outer leaves and trim the leaves so about two inches remain. Slice the leeks down the center and rinse under cold running water being careful to rinse the grit from each layer.


The flavor of leeks is similar to onions although it is much more refined, subtle, and sweet. Leeks can be substituted for onions, but onions should never be substituted for leeks. The flavor of an onion is much too intense. Leeks should be cooked until tender but still slightly firm. Overcooking makes for a pile of slimy mush. Leeks are most popular as an ingredient in soup, but they also pair well with cheese, veal and chicken. Some herbs and spices that compliment leeks are parsley, sage, thyme, basil, chervil, lemon, and mustard. In addition to their great flavor, leeks are also a good source of dietary fiber, and contain large amounts of folic acid, calcium, potassium, and vitamin C. They have laxative, antiseptic, diuretic, and anti-arthritic properties and are easier to digest than regular onions.

Leeks are somewhat fickle when it comes to storage. Other things in the refrigerator can easily absorb their odor so they should always be lightly wrapped in plastic first. They are best stored raw without being trimmed or washed. Raw leeks will last about one week in the refrigerator while cooked leeks should be used within one to two days. Leeks do not freeze well; they typically turn into mush and develop a bitter taste when frozen.

Next time you visit the grocery store, pick up a bundle of leeks. They are always there and they really aren’t as mysterious as they seem.


Greek-Style Pasta with Leeks

Ingredients:

* 12 ounces spinach pasta
* 6 garlic cloves, minced
* 2 large leeks, cleaned, trimmed and thinly sliced
* 2 teaspoons fennel seed
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 28 ounce can tomatoes, crushed
* one-half cup kalamata olives
* 1 teaspoon oregano
* salt and pepper to taste

Method:

1. Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and set aside. Sauté garlic, leeks and fennel seeds in oil in a large skillet until the leeks are soft, about 20 minutes. If the mixture begins to stick, add a little water. Stir in the tomatoes, olives, oregano, and salt. Simmer uncovered until the sauce is reduced, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, add black pepper, combine with pasta and serve. Makes 4 servings.

Recipe from Vegetarian Gourmet, Winter 1995

Lamb and Leeks with Hot Bean Sauce

Ingredients:

* 1 pound lean leg or shoulder of lamb
* 2 small leeks, including 2 inches of green leaves
* 1 small carrot
* 2 tablespoons soy sauce
* 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
* 4 teaspoons sugar
* 1 tablespoon rice wine or dry vermouth
* 2 teaspoons cornstarch
* 2 teaspoons roasted sesame oil
* 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
* 2 and one-half tablespoons peanut oil
* one-half teaspoon salt
* 3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
* 2 teaspoons hot bean sauce

Method:

1. Cut lamb crosswise into slices one-eighth inch thick by 1 inch wide by 2 inches long. Trim leeks, halve lengthwise, and cut into 2-inch slivers.
Cut carrot into one-eighth by 2-inch julienne strips; blanch briefly in boiling salted water and drain. Set vegetables aside.

2. In bowl, combine lamb, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce, ginger, 1 teaspoon of the sugar, wine, cornstarch and 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil. Marinate 30 minutes.

3. In small bowl, combine vinegar and the remaining soy sauce, sugar and sesame oil; set aside.

4. Preheat wok over high heat until very hot; add 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil. When hot, add lamb in 3 batches, seconds apart. Sear meat until it is no longer pink (about 30 seconds per batch), pushing seared meat up sides of wok and adding next batch in center. Remove meat; set aside.
Reduce heat to medium-high; pour in remaining peanut oil; add salt and garlic. Stir-fry until garlic is lightly browned and fragrant (about 15 seconds).

5. Add leek and carrot; stir-fry 15 seconds.

6. Push vegetables up sides of wok, add bean sauce in center, and cook until fragrant (about 15 seconds). Add vinegar mixture; cook, stirring until reduced to a thick consistency.

7. Add cooked lamb, toss lightly, and serve at once. Serves 4.

Recipe from www.detnews.com

Creamy Roasted Garlic Soup with Leeks and Potatoes

Ingredients:

* One-half cup olive oil
* 5 plump heads roasted garlic
* 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
* 4 cups washed thin sliced leeks (including greens)
* 3 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch cubes
* One-half teaspoon dried thyme
* 10 cups vegetable stock
* salt to taste
* white pepper to taste
* 1 tablespoon minced chives

Method:

1. Heat olive oil in saucepan. Add sliced garlic and sauté until crisp and golden brown (2-4 minutes). Don’t let garlic get too dark or it will be bitter. Use slotted spoon and transfer to paper towels to drain.

2. Combine hot oil and leeks in large soup pot. Cover and cook on low heat until leeks are wilted (15-20 minutes), stirring occasionally. Add potatoes, thyme, and stock. Cover and cook on medium until liquid is bubbling (about 5 minutes). Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are very tender (30-40 minutes).
Remove the soup from heat. Pour two cups of potato liquid into measuring cup and reserve.

3. Puree the soup and roasted garlic together (in batches if necessary). Return to pot, season with salt and pepper and stir over medium-high heat until bubbling. If it’s too thick, add reserve to thin. If it’s too thin, simmer longer. Adjust seasonings to taste.

4. Ladle into heated soup bowls and sprinkle with crisped sliced garlic and chives.

Recipe from Garlic, Garlic, Garlic by Linda and Fred Griffith