Tasting Red Wines

Many people had their first taste of dry red wine from a bottle labeled "Gallo Hearty Burgundy." The wine certainly did not come from the French province of the same name, nor from the pinot noir grapes that grow there, but it was a right wine at a right price at a right time, and a lot of folks drank it. Ernest and Julio Gallo, the brothers who founded the company, have gone on to that great vineyard in the sky, but before they left, they had started to change their winery from the world's largest maker and seller of wine to one of the world's major producers of quality wine. To this end, the Gallos purchased land in the Sonoma Valley and other places in California, planted exceptional grapes, experimented with the results, spent a great deal of money, designed a label that said "Gallo of Sonoma," and put quality wines inside the bottle. They designed several other labels, like Frei Vineyard, Indigo Hills and Zabaco. The labels kept the family name inconspicuous, sometimes didn't mention it at all. And the results? At the last Vinitaly, an annual affair in Verona which is one of the world's top wine shows, Gallo earned a grand gold for its 1994 Northern Sonoma cabernet sauvignon, a gold for its '93 version (red wines are judged in age groups) and a bronze for the '92. Its Indigo Hills sparkling wine also took home a grand gold medal. Delicato of Napa earned gold medals for its 1998 and '99 Merlot. More than 2000 producers from around the world were represented, and wines from Austria, Greece, Canada, Chile, France and the Czech Republic were medal-winners, too, though Italy dominated. More than 3000 wines by 4000 exhibitors were judged, thousands more were tasted and displayed for sale. More than 2000 journalists were on hand, and more than 60,000 people attended, even though it rained much of the time. But with winter and chilly evenings at hand, it's time to look at wines to go with dinner. I've long been a fan of reds. Neither the great, lean whites of Burgundy nor the rich, oak-aged California chardonnays, good as they may be, make proper companions for the foods I like; give me the classic red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, but those have risen so far on the price scale that many drinkers -- I among them -- tend to pass. An interesting aside to Bordeaux and Burgundy: the latter is made of pinot noir grapes, and solely of pinot noir grapes, while the former can include cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, mourvedre and cinsault grapes, in various amounts. Wines from the Rhone Valley are mainly grenache, but often include syrah, petite sirah and others. Italian reds, though they are being made with cabernet and pinot noir grapes these days, use a lot of sangiovese. Australian wineries make superior products from shiraz grapes. Americans use all the grapes listed above, plus zinfandel, which now is considered a close relative of the Italian primitivo, and as we get to some more specific wines and labels, we'll start with zinfandel, long a personal favorite for its hearty, deep color, aroma and flavor. Talking about Gallo, as we were at the beginning, the Rancho Zabaco zinfandels tend to be excellent, at many different prices. At the lower end of the price scale is the 2000 Dancing Bull (about $12), vinified from grapes that grow throughout California. For example, the wine includes juice from Lodi (58 percent), Sonoma (14), Central Coast (12), North Coast (12) and Central Valley (4), but it has excellent color and deep bramble flavor, a quality the best zins all possess, along with good black raspberry flavors and balance. The '99 Rancho Zabaco Stefani Vineyard wine (about $25) is from the famous Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County. It's still a little tight, but another six months in the cellar will bring that around to richness and a long open finish. Decant this one to get some air into it, and enjoy the wonderful color and aroma. The Rancho Zabaco label also includes a swell zin from the Chiotti Vineyard of Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley. It's high in alcohol (15.6 percent) and costs upward of $25. The 2000 vintage has superior flavor and body, but could use a little more bottle aging. The lighter, more ready to drink zinfandel from Sonoma Heritage vines, also from the 2000 vintage, is a bargain at about $15. Some other recently tasted reds from up and down the California coast: * Sebastiani 1999 Domenici Vineyards, Sonoma County: Old (more than a century) vines, a big, bright flavor and a long finish. Delicious in all respects. $25. * Foppiano 2000 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, Sonoma County: Flavorful, very full-bodied offering from a veteran producer, this carries a modest $15 price and needs a little more time to round off the rough edges. Slightly harsh right now, but with some splendid flavors at the finish. * Zaca Mesa 1999 Chapel Vineyard Mourvedre, Santa Barbara County: Tobacco-blackberry aroma, big, plummy, almost chewy, great color, almost black. Sturdy wine from vinifera grapes, used as a Bordeaux blend, to accompany steaks, spicy meat loaf. * Shafer 1998 Merlot, Napa County: One of the great California wines, extremely ripe and rich, will accompany any meat or hearty cheese. Great with dark chocolate mousse, too. Expensive but worth it for a splurge. * Sterling 1999 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot, Napa County: Plum and blackberry flavors predominate in this beautifully balanced, smooth, easy-to-drink red. A superior wine from rocky soil with a long finish. $22. * Foppiano 2000 Russian River Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County: Mostly cab, but with a little merlot and cabernet franc to smooth the hard cabernet edges. On the lighter side, but a good value at $17.50 * Pedroncelli 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County: Medium body but with splendid richness as a wine with beef dish like pot roast or stew. Plums in the finish, currants in the aroma and first taste, and a bargain at about $12. * J 2000 Russian River Pinot Noir, Sonoma County: A lovely, unfiltered wine with dark cherry overtones, medium body and a style to accompany lamb, pork, turkey and even a rich fish like salmon. Excellent flavor and exemplary balance. In the $20 range.