Wine Drinkers Can Toast Industry Trends

Wine has historically been a trendy commodity. That is, subject, like fashion, to the zeitgeist of its consumers. Today is no different, though it’s a safe bet to say that more wine is being produced on this planet than ever in its history. Because of this surfeit and because of globalization, the market is more unstable and unpredictable than ever. Some things remain constant: the high price of top Bordeaux and Burgundy and growth of the industry in the New World, to name a few. But market power shifts in waves. France is waning, Australia is waxing. It’s hard to gauge the current state of wine. In some countries like France and Spain, consumption is declining, while in others, such as the United States, consumption is slowly rising. Whatever the case, watching trends is always fun. Here are a few good ones to keep your eyes on: 1) Price drops. It’s possible today to get a better cheap bottle than at any other time in history. The causes? The grape glut – too many producers in too many countries planted grapes in the hopes of cashing in. Now they’re dumping their wine on the bulk market in an attempt to maintain cash flow. Two Buck Chuck, from Trader Joe’s, is both symptom and cause of the above situation: The grape surplus made Chuck possible, while the popularity of the $2 wine has forced other brands to sharply drop prices. Look for this trend to continue. Also look to snap up great deals on things like 1999 Bordeaux, the price of which has dropped thanks to the hype of the 2000 vintage. Deals abound. 2) Direct shipping. South Carolina just turned. So did Virginia. Slowly the antiquated rules forbidding consumers from receiving shipments directly from wineries in other states are being discarded. It’s a big deal for the wine industry, for whom it’s essential to spread its best products far and wide. Shipping laws are of no consequence to the huge wineries like Gallo, Niebaum-Coppola and Mondavi who, along with other big houses, account for 95 percent of the wine produced in this country. They are distributed in all 50 states. But for smaller wineries with a great product, such as, say, Eberle in Paso Robles, California or Cayuse in Washington state, it is currently illegal to ship their wine to Texas, thus depriving them of a potentially big market. These laws will continue to fall, though, and common sense will triumph. 3) Syrah in the New World. While we are suffused with all sorts of Australian Shiraz, Syrah in this country has been over hyped the last few years. While critics hailed it as the “great new thing,” the quality was just never there. That has changed. As vines age, vineyard techniques improve and winemaking becomes more savvy; we’re seeing more excellent Syrah in this country than ever. Look for wines from Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez, Dry Creek Valley and Walla Walla for some delicious, spicy, dark, earthy wines. These have been some of my favorites of the last year. 4) Organic viticulture. People are starting to learn how to take care of their land. The days of industrial farming of grapes are numbered. Grape growers and winery owners are discovering that to farm organically, sustainingly and even biodynamically is to at once make better-tasting wines, do the earth a favor and do their businesses a favor. This is not in question. Better farming practices make better wines. People are starting to get it. 5) Imports. As much as wine quality in this country is slowly improving, imports are cruising these days. Great wines pour out of the souths of France and Italy and, notably, Spain. From France, try the lush and brambly reds from Languedoc and Rousillon. In Italy look to Sicily, Sardinia, and Campania for great deals on wines incredibly full of fruit and personality. Spain offers crisp whites from Rueda and Galicia and rich reds from Toro, Navarre, Somontano and Rioja. And the prices are remarkable. Enjoy.