Warm Drinks Rescue a Cold Winter

When I was a kid, as winter drew into night, I used to have a recurring dream about being rescued by a Saint Bernard. Lost in a blizzard, I collapsed in the snow on the side of one of the Swiss Alps, felled by an avalanche or something. My were legs frozen, my consciousness blended into an all-absorbing white light, when out of the brightness trotted a dog, a big dog with one of those wooden kegs fastened under his head filled with … what? Well, I could never decide. Brandy might do the trick, but it seems a little wankish for a life-or-death experience. Whisky, especially Scotch from Islay, seems like the right thing, but would they really have much of that in Switzerland? And, if so, would they trust a dog with it? I don’t think so. The situation would become dire, for, as I’d debate this in my dream, my life force was slipping away. The dog stood there, exasperated. “Just pick a drink and go with it,” he seemed to be saying. But before I found out what was in the little barrel, I woke up, shivering. While I no longer have that dream, it left me with something far more satisfying: a great fondness for winter beverages, the kind only the most brilliant of dogs could offer. Because it is indeed the season, not only for throat-screaming fire water like Scotch but also for the gentle side of winter drinking: hot cocktails. Unfortunately, today’s cocktails are sold on sex appeal, and these drinks – toddies, punches, etc. – are not sexy. Hot drinks are cardigan sweater – not miniskirt – beverages and tend to sit untouched on the stove during holiday get-togethers. They’ve been branded as a Dickensian relics, drinks for squares, drinks that warm the cockles of our hearts rather than the cockles of our pants. But I’m here to say that, even if they’re unsexy, they’re darn good. When was the last time you had a hot buttered rum? Okay, well, try it again. Throw a shot (or two) of spiced rum (Captain Morgan works well) into a mug and fill the rest up with hot water. Stir in a teaspoon or two of brown sugar or honey and place a slice of butter on top. Finally, sprinkle some powdered nutmeg or cloves over the whole thing. As the butter melts, stir it in. If you do it right, I’ll promise that you’ll have a second. Or how about the Irish coffee? Though this cocktail was supposedly invented by an Irish bartender, it didn’t really become popular until it took off in this country. The secret to this drink? Cold, frothed cream - not whipped cream from an aerosol can. Make it at home yourself with a hand mixer. For the rest, it’s simple: Dissolve a teaspoon of sugar into a cup of coffee and then add an ounce or two of Irish whiskey (Jameson does quite nicely). Stir, then add the frothed cream over the top. It’s a perfect breakfast or brunch cocktail during holiday celebrations. Other warm drinks abound. Have you heard of glögg? It’s the Scandinavian take on mulled wine, though generally sweeter and stronger. Glögg is cool because the Scandinavians know how to do cold. I mean, roasting in a sauna and then jumping into a frozen lake? Guys, imagine what that does to the cockles. Glögg will revive them and more. Preparation is simple. Take a basic recipe for mulled wine: Add nutmeg, cinnamon sticks and the zest of an orange and lemon to a couple cups of sweetened water. Bring to a simmer and reduce to a syrup-like consistency. Then add two bottles of red wine and the juices of the zested lemon and orange and heat through. For the Scandinavian twist, add vodka, raisins and almonds. It’s best enjoyed while wearing a toga and standing next to a roaring fire. (At least that’s the way I last remember enjoying it at a party thrown by Swedish friends. In fact, that’s the last thing I remember about that party.) The best thing about hot drinks is that they’re easy to make and easy to invent. I invite you to experiment and come up with your own formula for holiday excess (just don’t drive after a hard day working in the lab). The following tips about crafting your own hot alcoholic beverages will help make your holidays tasty and will keep your cockles pleasantly warm: 1. Heat makes alcohol stand out, so water down your spirits or the drinks will be unpleasantly alcoholic. 2. For some reason, these drinks don’t taste great when they’re not sweet, so make sure to add sugar, honey or some other sweetening agent. 3. Richness (a bit of fat, be it from cream, butter or whatever) makes the drink much more delicious, so don’t be shy about the calories (after all, look at all those cookies you’ve been eating). 4. And, finally, if you think these drinks aren’t sexy, try offering something warm and sweet to someone about whom you feel warm and sweet and, trust me, your holidays will be happy ones.