Review: The Night Owl by Tree House
Perched one flight up from Tree House Restaurant on South Grand Boulevard is The Night Owl by Tree House, a dim and cozy cocktail and craft beer joint tailor-made for the neighborhood. Eclectic and laid-back to the point of being a little grungy, on my visit before a recent remodel it was a great nest for relaxing with friends on a beat-up old couch, Manhattan in hand.
No bright signage drew me upstairs to this word-of-mouth bar, which looked like it spent a previous life as someone’s apartment. A reclaimed lumber bar lorded over two rooms, which afforded nice views of bustling South Grand through large windows. The walls were decorated with wooden and cardboard art playfully fashioned to resemble tree branches. In the back, a dark lounge area was littered with a handful of well-worn chairs and a cozy couch that may well have been snatched from someone’s basement. A DJ stationed in a corner of the front room enhanced the cool, clandestine loft party feel. It was the kind of place where you wouldn’t be surprised to find a keg of Miller High Life being tapped in the bathroom.
Cocktails are the thing here. The bar’s creative and lighthearted concoctions were seriously flavor-focused. Nothing seemed done by mistake. Though the drinks menu has now changed, nightly specials, colorfully scribbled on a chalkboard, listed adventurous fusion drinks when I was there. Like the Manhazarec: the best of both worlds, featuring spicy Old Overhold Rye paired with Camus Cognac and Cocchi Americano. Whiskey forward and not too sweet, this was a potent and enjoyable sipper. Gin lovers would be pleased by the Thyme After Thyme – a colorful, refreshing and bittersweet mix of gin, Aperol, St. Germain, tonic and fresh thyme sprigs. The beer list was likewise eclectic and fun. It’s no shock that big-name domestics were cast aside (with the exception of Pabst Blue Ribbon of course), but an impressive amount of care clearly went into the local and regional tap and bottle choices. Offerings ranged from Excel East Side IPA to Perennial Abraxas – a thick, complex Imperial stout with a new place in my heart for slow, after-dinner sipping.
The Night Owl utterly lacked pretention – an admirable feat, considering the meticulous drinks and the fact that it’s attached to a primarily vegan restaurant. But the hip atmosphere and serious bartenders were thankfully unaccompanied by ego. Not so much a roost for power drinkers or bar flies, The Night Owl caters to casual young professionals who appreciate a good drink and eccentric surroundings.
Decibel levels tick up a few notches with guest DJs and occasional live jazz acts that play to a small crowd in the tight upstairs space on weekend nights.
Young bar-goers are a notoriously fickle crowd, so it wouldn’t be earth-shattering news if The Night Owl someday goes back to being someone’s apartment. But this is a party worth checking out before it gets broken up. The hidden gem could work as a date spot, as well as a gathering place for old friends who prefer a house party vibe to the regular pub/club scene.
The Night Owl by Tree House, 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.696.2100
