Vegan Beignets

Mardi Gras is my reward for surviving the winter holidays. Instead of obligatory gift giving and awkward work parties, it’s an unrestrained celebration of goodwill toward fellow humans, illustrated by the dispensing of beaded necklaces, heady beverages and witty banter in the porta-potty line. In honor of the Grand Parade (which I’m missing due to being old my kids’ basketball games) I’m making vegan beignets. Beignets are fried bubbles of sweet dough, covered in unapologetic mounds of powdered sugar. They are the official state doughnut of Louisiana, and a bucket-list purchase at New Orleans’ famed Café du Monde. To make an egg- and dairy-free version that’s as decadent as the real deal, I started at the beginning: with flour. Flour contains protein. Add liquid, and the protein transforms into gluten. More protein equals more gluten, equals more chewiness. For a sturdy beignet that could stand up to a deep-fry, I picked protein-rich bread flour for my first attempt. The results were like a fried baguette – delicious, but too heavy to feel authentic. On the opposite side of the protein spectrum, self-rising flour gave me substantial, yet tender beignets. As a bonus, self-rising flour contains dashes of salt and baking powder, which work with the yeast to add extra fluffiness. If you would rather spend your cash on zydeco downloads instead of niche flours, simply use all-purpose flour with an extra pinch of salt, enjoy your medium-dense beignets, and move on. Regular readers know that coconut milk is my go-to rich and creamy vegan milk substitute. Here it works like a Jello shot: sweet and effective, adding a hint of coconut that deepens the flavor profile. What failed like a three-wheeled parade float was my usual flaxseed and water egg substitute. Beignets made with that had an after-taste charitably described as icky. Instead, I used Ener-G Egg Replacer, found in the gluten-free aisle of most grocery stores. I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t used Ener-G because of my mistaken assumption that it’s a processed Frankenfood. Au contraire, it’s a helpful combo of not-scary potato and tapioca starches that lightened my beignets with no off-taste. The dough in this recipe is super-sticky, so a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment works best for kneading. Alternatively, you can Google the “slap and fold” technique, which sounds like a bar fight, but is just a way to hand-knead heavily hydrated dough. In both cases, the kneading time will vary depending on the humidity and your sobriety. You’ll know the kneaded dough is ready to rest when it stretches without tearing, a little test super-bakers call the “window pane technique.” Then you’re just a rise and fry away from fresh hot beignets, a worthy Mardi Gras celebration for the parade in your own kitchen. VEGAN BEIGNETS 4 DOZEN 1½ cups plus ¼ cup warm water, divided 1 packet (¼ oz.) active dry yeast 1 Tbsp. Ener-G Egg Replacer 1 cup coconut milk, whisked to incorporate the coconut cream and water ½ cup organic granulated sugar ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 8 cups self-rising flour* 2 tsp. canola oil, plus more for frying 1 cup organic powdered sugar for dusting • Pour 1½ cups warm water (100 to 110 degrees) into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Sprinkle the yeast on top of the water and let it dissolve. • In another bowl, whisk together the Ener-G Egg Replacer and the remaining ¼ cup warm water, then add the coconut milk, granulated sugar, salt, vanilla and cinnamon. • Turn the mixer on low and add the coconut milk mixture to the yeast and water. Add the flour ½ cup at a time. Continue to mix on low 10 minutes, until you can stretch a small ball of dough with your fingertips without tearing it. The dough will still be quite sticky. • Grease a large, nonreactive bowl with 2 teaspoons canola oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning it so the dough becomes covered with a thin layer of oil. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and let the dough rest 2 hours in a draft-free place. • Sprinkle a cutting board with a little flour. Place the rested dough on the cutting board and roll it out into a ¼-inch thick slab. Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the dough into 1½- to 2-inch squares. • In a deep, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, warm 3 inches canola oil to 350 degrees. Working in batches, gently place the dough pieces into the hot oil. Cook the beignets 2 to 3 minutes, turning them once, until they puff up and are golden brown. Carefully remove the beignets from the hot oil and drain them on paper towels until they are cool enough to touch. Serve warm with a generous dusting of powdered sugar. * If substituting all-purpose flour, add an additional ½ teaspoon salt.