Review: Ferguson Burger Bar & More in Ferguson

Editor's note: Ferguson Burger Bar & More has closed.

Ferguson Burger Bar & More, known less for its food than its backstory as a symbol of resilience amid the Ferguson protests, had a successful first year and is looking to expand to a larger location.

Take your time
As customers enter Ferguson Burger Bar & More in the center of a drab strip mall on West Florissant Avenue, they are faced with a dizzying array of choices, with the menu supplemented by ever-changing suggestions on sundry chalkboards. The counter is manned by the husband-and-wife team of Charles and Kizzie Davis, who give their patrons plenty of time to narrow their choices and place their orders before taking a seat at one of the five tables. Although the burger bar keeps long hours and can be bustling, on my two recent lunchtime visits, it was never more than moderately busy.

Burgers and more
All the burgers, served as singles or doubles, use handmade patties – with beef, turkey or veggie options – and are messy towers stacked high. The signature Garbage Burger is a succulent burger fortified with crispy bacon, enhanced by the satisfying burst of flavor from a fried egg, in addition to the usual trimmings of lettuce, onion, cheese and mayo. My eating partner quipped that the restaurant’s most popular burger covers all the important food groups. Other burgers on the menu include a bacon cheeseburger, bacon double ranch, Southwest double and double patty melt. All are accompanied by satisfyingly crunchy crinkle-cut fries.

The wings (or “wangs,” as the menu puts it) are as tender as the burgers and even a little messier. Get them slathered with a sauce. The best-sellers are the sweet ’n’ spicy and the sweetly indulgent peach glaze; other options include hot, honey barbecue, lemon pepper and honey mustard sauce.

For fish lovers, there’s tilapia, catfish and shrimp. I highly recommend the tilapia. It is lightly seasoned so as to not overpower its delicacy and, contrasted with the astringent flavor of pickles and onions, served on slices of white bread.

Secret seasoning
Side options include a range of choices from jalapeno poppers to fried mushrooms to mozzarella sticks. Onion rings and fried okra are both dusted with a house-made secret seasoning that adds a piquant zip to the satisfyingly crisp batter. The fried okra is a standout: For those who cannot abide its viscous consistency, eating it deep-fried reveals its oozing-with-goodness essence.

Getting it right
The atmosphere was friendly and relaxed. On both visits, the owners were careful to repeat orders to be sure they got them right. The Davises were polite, exchanging warm words with regulars, although notably disengaged and busy with other tasks once the food was served.

What's in a name
“More” means breakfast and catering, but it has also come to represent the burger bar’s role as a gathering place within Ferguson. Last year, the Davises opened their business the day before the police shooting of Michael Brown on Aug. 9. While protesting and looting took place around them, the burger bar was one of the few businesses that did not close early or board up its windows.

The takeaway
The Davises have not operated a restaurant before, yet taking over from an existing business, they have poured themselves into creating a popular joint serving hearty, affordable food. The food itself perhaps does not justify a long-distance pilgrimage, but Ferguson Burger Bar & More offers a spirited slice of North County life.