Review: Bella Vita in Rock Hill

Bella Vita, a new spot that debuted in Rock Hill this summer, is certainly a wine bar: Quality bottles and exclusive vintages with delightfully smooth finishes? Check. Smart, slightly pretentious atmosphere? Check. Cheese plates? Why not.

But with its innovative spin on serving wine (and a welcome one at that), this is not your typical wine bar. Taking a page from the popular self-serve wine cafés in Europe, Bella Vita’s owners decided to introduce St. Louis’ first Enomatic wine serving system – essentially a wall of wines. More than 60 bottles of rich reds and smooth whites are lined in an automatic dispensing system set into a sharp-looking framework of stone (apparently crafted by the owner himself). Drinkers peruse the labels, empty glass in hand and, once they’ve decided on one, motion to servers who swipe a prepaid card and pull the chosen libation. Options are by the taste (1.5 ounces), by the half-glass, by the full glass and (should you decide to step it up a notch) by the bottle. There’s a $10 minimum for the cards, which are purchased at a register up front. Paying the check before imbibing might seem a bit odd (I’d advise starting with at least $20), but you do hold on to the cards and retain any unused credit.

Solid bottles of red generally fall in the $15 to $50 range. There are exceptions; I spotted a Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Cabernet at $200. The whites are cheaper, $13 to $30. The Italian reds, full-bodied and wonderfully fruity, paired well with my table’s cheese tray (also recommended). A good starter for fans of the richer reds would be the Argiano Non Confunditur. Taken as a whole, the selection is exceptional, but after several visits, I can’t say that any bottles were standouts. Hopefully there’ll be a revolving selection. I’m also hoping the management starts offering new glasses, or at least a splash of water to cleanse them, between tastes (pretty standard practice in wineries). Maintenance could also prove a problem; on my first visit, several labels were unavailable because the dispenser was malfunctioning and the technician seemingly had to be flown in from Europe.

The décor is sparse. It’s a New Age-y, loft-type space, complete with an exposed ceiling. About half a dozen sleek tables face the bottle wall opposite a lounge seating area that overlooks Manchester Road. A small patio space with another half-dozen tables quickly fills on weekends. Though Bella Vita is definitely a breath of fresh air for the neighborhood, the location is a little puzzling: It’s wedged between a Cartridge World and a Baskin Robbins in a new strip mall. You really feel a venue like this would fare much better in a more urban setting, which would also help to avoid the complications of Rock Hill’s notorious speed traps (another good reason for using a designated driver).

The crowd is what you’d imagine: older, middle-class, polo shirt and Top-Sider types eager to get away from the kids for an evening. Curious baby boomers and neighborhood sorts mill in and out, taste a few glasses, pick a bottle to go, gaze at the menu, and are quickly out the door. Mixed in are a few curious thirtysomething working professionals and, on the weekends, even a few Chardonnay-sipping college girls laughing and batting their eyes at the occasional passerby.

The venue is ideal for a first date or even for an early group hang-out spot for the Wine Spectator crowd, but attendance does need to pick up a bit. Word is slowly spreading, and in a few months I’d expect Bella Vita to establish a strong following – especially among upwardly mobile young marrieds looking to avoid the downtown meat market and/or dance club scene, opting instead for a casual night to uncork and unwind.

STL AFTER DARK
Check it: The Enomatic wine dispenser.
Hipster or Hoosier: CEOs and their spouses, cultured masses, married couples.
What you're drinking: More than 60 choices of luscious reds and whites.
Where: Bella Vita, 9528 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.961.6363
When: Tue. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., Sun. – noon to 7 p.m.