Mushroom Stroganoff

Maybe it’s because I was born on the autumnal equinox – or maybe I just love when scarf season rolls around – but fall is, and always will be, my favorite time of the year. The air transitions from hot and humid to cool and crisp; the trees descend into a color-filled finale before hibernating for the winter; and it’s peak season for three of my favorite “s” dishes: soups, stews and stroganoff. Growing up, beef stroganoff was the meal I requested most from my mom (her meatloaf was a close second), and thanks to the flavor-filled and ever-flexible mushroom, I have been able to keep this childhood favorite on the menu. Mushrooms are without a doubt my go-to vegetable when I need an ingredient that’s filling, and since there are so many varieties, stroganoff is a great way to experiment with different combinations until you find the one that floats your palate. Perhaps a little 101 is in order? The mushroom you see at most every grocery store – and at the lowest price – is the button mushroom. These are great if you’re cooking for someone with a phobia of fungus, because the flavor is much milder than the brown varieties. Some chefs don’t even bother with them, but I think they’re great for those of us on a budget. Perhaps the next best-known variety is the portabella. Their size makes them perfect for replicating the long slices of beef found in traditional stroganoff, and they’re the ones I use most for this “vegetized” dish. Plus, since they’re of the brown variety (aka cremini), they have more flavor to give than the button, without much more cost. From here on out, you’ve got a smorgasbord of scrumptious and flavorful spores. They tend to be on the pricey side but are definitely worth the splurge. Porcinis are great if you’re looking for a rich, almost woodsy flavor. Shiitakes are a close cousin, maintaining that outdoorsy taste, but with less water, which helps them trap flavor a little better. Chanterelles hold up well in a sauté pan and have a slightly fruity undertone. Enokis have a flavor all their own – more fruit than earth – and a unique texture. Oysters tend to have a fishy taste, making them better suited for seafood dishes. And then there are the morels, the deliciously earthy mushrooms that run wild in mid-Missouri. Once you have your variety of choice, cleaning them is key. You can’t just run mushrooms through a stream of water or they will soak it up, which dilutes their flavor. Instead, grab a paper towel, get it slightly damp and brush the dirt off. I know your brain is bursting with information right about now, but I must leave you with one last lesson I’ve learned by trial and error: The key to a meaty mushroom is to cook the heck out of it (actually, it’s the moisture you’re cooking out, but who can resist a good faux swear word?). I generally sauté sliced mushrooms for 10 to 15 minutes, and then finish them over high heat to caramelize the edges a bit. The more moisture they give up, the denser and meatier the texture becomes. But don’t take my word for it, go on and give it a whirl. Mushroom Stroganoff 4 servings 3 Tbsp. olive oil, plus additional for drizzling 1 large onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. freshly minced thyme Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste ¾ lb. mushrooms (Portabellas are best as a texture/sight replica of the beef, but you can use any medley of mushrooms you want.) 8 oz. egg noodles ¼ cup dry white wine 1¼ cups vegetable broth 1½ cups sour cream 3 Tbsp. flour Fresh parsley (optional) • In a medium Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and let it cook for about 4 minutes, or until it’s transparent. • Add the garlic and sauté another minute. • Add the thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Mix together, and then add the mushrooms. Cook until the mushrooms are limp and browned, making sure almost all of their moisture has been released. • Meanwhile, cook the noodles according to the package directions. If they finish before the sauce, drain and return them to the pot, then drizzle in some olive oil and stir to keep them from sticking. • Once the mushrooms are cooked through, remove the mixture and set aside on a plate. • In the same Dutch oven, add the wine and vegetable broth, making sure to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom. • Increase the heat and bring to a boil; let it reduce by about a third. • Turn the heat to medium/medium-low and add the mushroom mixture back into the Dutch oven, followed by the sour cream and flour. Cook until the sauce is combined and thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper. • Serve the sauce over the noodles and top with freshly chopped parsley.