Spirited herbs

According to both Ted Kilgore, master mixologist at Niche Taste Bar in Benton Park, and Chris Sommers, owner of Pi in the East Loop and Kirkwood and the upcoming c/d bar in the Central West End, using fresh herbs in cocktails is a flourishing trend in St. Louis. “It’s really about bringing the kitchen to the bar and using more premium spirits and fresh herbs to accentuate the true flavor and character of the alcohol in the drink,” Sommers said. At Pi, the cocktail menu is a collaboration between Sommers and H. Joseph Ehrmann, a renowned mixologist and proprietor of Elixir in San Francisco. Sommers said fresh ingredients are key, regardless of the drink’s style. “We still make Cosmos, but we’ve been able to get people to explore other drinks such as our signature Pi Squared, made with Square One Organic Vodka from California and fresh basil,” he said. Kilgore, who noted that this trend has been going on for some time now in bigger cities, said, “The first herb I saw being used in St. Louis was mint, then basil. It’s all about using fresher, local ingredients. … The ingredients you see in the kitchen make sense with cocktails, too.” When experimenting with fresh herbs, Kilgore suggested thinking about how to best enhance the flavors of the spirit. As far as how to use them, he said, “It all depends on what role you want the herbs to play. They can be a major or minor player.” Kilgore shared that he tends to use herbs as accents; therefore, he pairs them with spirits that have a strong flavor profile. “When making a gin cocktail with Campari, grapefruit and Chartreuse, I just rub a sprig of rosemary in it. With cachaça, a white spirit with a big flavor profile, I use sage with pineapple and a bit of lime juice.” To add another dimension to a more neutral drink, like a vodka and soda, he said, “Just throw in a lavender sprig.” And, since most of our tasting experience comes from smell, Kilgore advised: “When you go out for a drink, leave the herb in the drink because it’s supposed to be in there. All garnishes are part of the cocktail.” When you want the herb to be a part of the drink versus simply an accent to it, go with muddling. “Muddling brings out the herb’s natural oils, which combine with the other ingredients in the drink,” Kilgore explained. “Just muddle it with an ounce of simple syrup and ¾ ounce of fresh fruit juice in a glass. Add 2 ounces of spirit, shake hard and strain over ice.” Don’t know which herb to muddle in what spirit? “Taste the spirit first and then play off the flavor of the ingredient. Don’t cover up the spirit or overspice it. Enhance it,” Kilgore said. He recommended trying savory herbs such as rosemary with gin, basil with vodka, and brighter herbs like cilantro with tequila. Sommers suggested muddling the herbs in the glass first without putting any sweetener in the drink. “Before you oversweeten, let the herbs flavor the drink on their own. If after you taste it, you want it a little sweeter, use agave nectar instead of triple sec, which is a little cleaner,” he said. Another option is infusing spirits with fresh herbs, which, according to Kilgore, is easy, can be done overnight and is great for parties. “With infusions, if it’s fresh, you can pull flavors together a lot quicker. It’s important to taste it after 24 hours, though, in case you need to adjust the amount of herbs or fruits.” One to try, he shared, is cachaça infused with cubed pineapple and sage. “Then, just mix it with a sour part – such as fresh lemon, lime or orange juice – and pour over ice.” Sommers added, “Infusions are quite simple; you don’t even need to put it in the refrigerator. And don’t be afraid to be generous with the herbs.” While Kilgore favors getting creative when experimenting with fresh herbs in cocktails, he also conceded that it’s possible to take it over the top. “Sometimes it can be overkill. Stay as true to what you’re drinking as possible and accent the flavors of the spirit, no matter how subtle they are,” he said.