Much to know beyond Nouveau

When you think of wines from France’s Beaujolais region, you probably think of Beaujolais Nouveau, the juicy, young, fruity wine that pops up on grocery store and wine shop shelves around town every November. But I can assure you: A great big world of Beaujolais wines exists beyond Nouveau, which accounts for less than 30 percent of the region’s total wine production. This leaves a vast array of wines – from a total of 12 appellations – to explore from the picturesque area just south of Burgundy. And, considering Beaujolais’ versatility, affordability and friendliness with summertime fare, now couldn’t be a better time to discover them. “Appreciation of the wines of Beaujolais can be summed up with the phrase ‘joie de vivre,’” said Andrew Traughber, owner of Bon Vivant Wines in downtown Columbia, Ill. “Beaujolais is an energizing, life-affirming beverage, profound in its simplicity. Someone once said to me, ‘If you don’t like Beaujolais, you don’t like wine,’ and I couldn’t agree more.”  All Beaujolais is produced from only one varietal, the Gamay grape, which thrives in the granitic soil and terroir of the region. But a diverse range of wine styles is possible due to how they’re made. Winemakers employ either the semicarbonic maceration technique, a fermentation method resulting in light, fruity, easy-drinking wines with little tannin, or the traditional vinification method, which results in more complex, refined wines that receive oak aging. The appellations of Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages tend to produce the lighter, fruiter wine styles, and the region’s other 10 appellations, called the Crus, represent the best of the best Beaujolais. These Cru wines – Brouilly, Régnié, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Saint-Amour, Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon, and Moulin à Vent – are produced in villages scattered throughout the foothills of the Beaujolais Mountains and are known for their aging potential. Only adding to the allure of Beaujolais wines is how well they pair with unfussy foods cooked or grilled at home. “Beaujolais wines are quite versatile at the dinner table, a notion that many wines pay lip service to, but Beaujolais actually delivers on,” said Traughber. “More specifically, they are compatible with meals that people prepare and eat regularly: … grilled foods, salmon, roast chicken, almost anything made from a pig, plainly seasoned steaks, mild cheeses, legumes and a range of vegetarian dishes.” Take note, red wine-lovers: You don’t have to sacrifice your wine of choice, even when the mercury is rising. “The wines of Beaujolais offer what few other red wines do: refreshment. That they can be served at a cool cellar temperature is a plus, especially during the summer months. Their soft, silky textures and vibrant flavors are perfect for refreshing and cleansing your palate,” said Traughber. So go ahead, fire up the grill, uncork a bottle of Beaujolais and make the most of what’s left of the summer. TRY THESE Below are Beaujolais recommendations from Traughber and Craig Adams of Vino Vitae Gourmet Wine Shop in Lafayette Square. TraugHber’s Picks: Domaine du Clos du Fief, Juliénas, 2006, $19 This is quintessential Beaujolais: delicate texture, bright fruit and floral aromatics with a refreshing character that makes it perfect for gulping back with fatty bistro fare.  Nicole Chanrion, Côte de Brouilly, 2006, $21 I recommend this wine to domestic Pinot drinkers looking for value and to Gamay skeptics. It displays rich cherry/blueberry fruit, pie spices and especially fine tannins. It’s delicious with roast fowl or pork.  Louis Claude Desvignes, Morgon, Côte du Py, 2006, $25 Atypical for Beaujolais, this has a relatively powerful structure, is dark in color with notes of black cherry, grilled herbs and peppercorn. It’s delicious now, but it deserves to be cellared for a few years to soften and take on more complexity. Adams’ Picks: Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages, 2007, $9.99 Gives the most bang for your buck. Patrick Brunet, Fleurie, 2006, $18.99 Fruity and silky with a strong nose, this epitomizes the region and is a joy to drink.